IKEA HACKS: How to DIY a Custom Walk-in Closet with the Ikea PAX Wardrobe
Updated November 5, 2024
One of the most popular Ikea hacks I’ve seen is a DIY closet made with the Ikea PAX wardrobe system.
In our previous townhouse, we loved how our Ikea closet turned out without much DIYing involved. We simply installed the PAX unit as-is and only custom cut one of the frames to size in order to fit a corner nook.
This time around, we wanted to try creating a custom DIY walk-in closet with this Ikea built-in hack!
In this post, we’re sharing how to achieve this Ikea closet hack and the exact tools and materials to re-create this yourself!
We’re spilling ALL the details in this step-by-step tutorial, including the EXACT measurements we used, everything we learned, and helpful tips for the best results.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means we’ll receive a commission if you purchase through our link, at no extra cost to you. You can read our full disclosure here.
Ikea PAX Wardrobe Design
After tweaking around 4 different design configurations on the Ikea PAX planner, we settled on our final PAX design.
Due to the dimensions of our closet, we opted for two 22” deep 39” width frame units on the left side and four 13” deep 29” width units with drawers and shelves as the focal point in the middle.
Closet Dimensions
For reference, our closet dimensions are 13 ft x 7.5 ft.
Since our walk-in closet is not that deep, we wanted the space to feel larger and did not want to crowd it with 22” depth units along the main focal wall, so we opted for 13” depth units there.
With a ceiling height of 9 ft, the taller 92 7/8″ frame units are the perfect choice.
29” Width Unit = Winner
From our past experience building Ikea PAX walk-in closets in our previous home, our favorite size is the 29” width unit which in our opinion looks the best and is the most durable long term.
We lined up four 29” width units as the focal wall and opted for 4 rows of drawers across the bottom.
For us, we fold our clothes much more than hanging, so our closet design is very drawer-heavy!
PAX Corner Solution
I believe Ikea used to have a corner PAX unit but for some reason it seems to be discontinued or I just can’t find it as an option on the USA Ikea website or on the PAX planner at all.
For our closet design, we did have one PAX corner to figure out and tried out a few different options.
This was the best corner solution that worked well for our space: 22” deep unit on one side and a 13” deep unit on the other (shown below).
This works for us since we were already planning on mixing up the depths of the units for our closet to maximize space.
DIY Custom Built-in Corner
With a floor vent in the floor right where a PAX unit would normally go, we had to figure out how to custom-fit another hanging space without covering the floor vent (more on how we did this later).
We ordered an extra 13″ depth frame to use (just the side frame pieces) for this custom built-in corner area.
We also designed an area with closed storage for linens and other random items that would look messy so we opted for another unit with PAX doors for the right side.
Ikea PAX Cost
The total cost of Ikea PAX products was $2,605 (before tax and delivery) with all the PAX frames, Komplement drawers, shelving, and doors included.
For all other DIY materials and tools, I listed the total project cost breakdown at the end of this post.
Ikea In-Home Delivery
HELPFUL TIP: If you’re planning on doing a walk-in closet PAX project, I’d highly recommend ordering online for in-home delivery.
With in-home delivery, they will deliver to a room of your choice which is incredibly helpful if your closet is on the second floor!
Scheduled in-home delivery costs $69 (or $59 if you’re an IKEA Family member) which is a great price for the convenience.
The delivery date is conveniently scheduled during the online checkout process.
Our scheduled order was delivered in about a week which was pretty quick!
I also noticed that IKEA has had some in-store stock issues and many of our items would not have been available in-store but were ready to ship.
So I think you’d have a better chance of having everything in stock with in-home delivery anyway.
For our project, our primary closet is on our second floor so it was amazing to have the delivery people bring everything upstairs for us.
Since there were so many heavy pieces they struggled a lot while we saved our energy 🙂
Ikea Hacks: How to DIY a Custom Built-in Closet
1. Remove Baseboards
The first step of the project was to remove the baseboard and shoe molding that was already installed in the closet.
Scoring the caulk with a utility knife and using a trim removal tool makes removal quick and easy.
In the past, we’ve tried removing baseboards without this trim tool and it is doable but a lot harder to prevent making holes in the drywall.
How it works: The trim removal tool is first hammered between the drywall and trim. Then the tool can be opened up, separating the trim from the drywall.
This affordable trim removal tool is a must-have and will come in handy for future DIY projects!
We planned on re-using the original baseboards and shoe, so we removed the nails using carpenters’ pliers.
We only removed the portion of the baseboard where the new closet frames would go and left the baseboards intact on the walls that weren’t going to have any frames.
To cut the baseboard where we needed it, we used an oscillating tool with a wood blade to cut the trim vertically where the PAX frames would be installed.
2. Assemble the PAX Frames
With IKEA’s newly updated PAX system design, assembly is super fast and we timed it around 12 minutes to assemble a frame.
There are recent changes to how the PAX is assembled, which will impact how you plan for your DIY Ikea hack project.
The biggest change is that with the old frame, you needed to manually nail the MDF board backing onto the back with about 40 nails.
I remember this step being tedious and taking quite a while during assembly.
On the PAX 2.0 units, the backer board comes pre-installed, which saves time and removes the potential for assembly errors, but also impacts how you DIY the back of the PAX.
For the rest of the PAX design updates, read this detailed blog post with ALL the latest changes we found while assembling our PAX 2.0 frames.
3. Build the Bases
To create a built-in look and allow for baseboards to wrap around the whole closet, you’ll want to build bases for the PAX frames to sit on.
What material to use: Our bases were built out of 2x6s (you can also use 2x4s if don’t need to elevate it that high).
For reference, we have 9 ft ceilings and wanted the closet frames to go all the way to the ceiling for a truly built-in look.
We chose 2x6s to give us the perfect height to use a 1×10 trim piece both at the bottom and top of the frames.
Another factor to consider is how tall your baseboards are. In our home, we have 5″ tall baseboards that need a little more height clearance at the bottom.
How to Build Frame Bases:
We first measured the dimensions of the PAX frames and created a template in SketchUp to create a cut list.
We made sure to have vertical support 2×6 pieces where the frame legs would be to make sure they are properly supported.
We used a Miter Saw with the stock Dewalt blade to cut 2x6s down to length.
Then the bases were assembled with 3” wood screws. We predrilled using a 1/8” drill bit and then drove in the screws using an impact driver.
4. Custom Backer Boards
All of the PAX units come with backer boards with a crease line down the middle.
This allows them to ship the PAX frames in smaller boxes, but the vertical crease line takes away from a custom built-in look and is a dead giveaway that it’s the PAX system.
Using Plywood as New Backer Board
Instead, we bought 5mm x 4′ x 8’ sheets of sanded poplar plywood to use as backer boards on the PAX frames.
Measure and Cut to Size
First, we measured the back dimensions of the PAX frames. 1/16” was subtracted from each side to make sure we didn’t have any fitment issues.
Once we had the dimensions, we marked the cuts and used a circular saw and Kreg Rip Cut Guide to cut the sheets to size.
Sand and Prime
The plywood was already fairly smooth but we still gave them a quick sand with an orbital sander and 320 grit sandpaper.
We then primed the plywood with a roller and extra primer we had on hand from a previous project.
And finally did another round of sanding with the orbital sander.
Replace Original Backs with New Plywood Backs
The original backs that come with the PAX are held on by glue. As mentioned before, with the new PAX 2.0 assembly design, the backs now come pre-attached so you’ll need to remove this first.
I used a box cutter to remove the back on the first frame. I later realized you can bend the backs by hand and the glue will separate.
There was some glue that was left on the frames, but it was easy to peel off.
How to Fix the Gap
After removing the original back, we realized that there would be a gap between the top and bottom panels and the backboard once attached.
(The original PAX design would have the backing flush with the frames once nailed on, but the way they design the PAX 2.0 versions with the backing pre-attached results in a gap.)
To fill these gaps, we cut additional plywood strips and nailed them to the top and bottom frame panels on each of the frames.
Now with the backs finally ready to be installed, I started by hammering 1″ 16.5ga panel board nails to secure the new plywood back to the PAX frame.
I then switched to using a nail gun with 2″ 18ga nails on the remaining PAX frames to save time and energy.
I made sure to drive the nails in straight as it’s easy to have the nails blow out the sides.
This is how it turned out after nailing the strip to fill the gap and then nailing the plywood back onto the PAX frames.
5. Mount Bases and Frames
Mark the Studs
Using a stud finder and carpenter’s pencil, I marked all of the wall studs at the top and bottom of the walls where the frames would be mounted.
Then, the bases and PAX frames were moved into the final locations.
Make Sure it’s Level
Our flooring was fairly level, but some adjustments were still needed to get the frame placement to be exactly level.
To do this, we used wood shims under the frames to get everything perfectly level and then snapped off the pieces that were sticking out.
Mount the Bases
The bases were then mounted to the wall studs with wood screws.
I first predrilled holes into the bases and studs using a long 1/8” drill bit. Then I drove 4” wood screws to secure the bases.
Mount the PAX Frames
Then the frames were placed back on the bases and I joined adjacent frames using the joining hardware that came with the Ikea PAX system.
A wood clamp is very useful to hold the frames in place while doing this.
Next, I needed a way to secure the PAX frame to the wall.
My solution was to make brackets out of 2x6s, which make a simple L-shape, and mount the back of the PAX frame to the wall.
These brackets were assembled using 3” wood screws, while 4” screws were used to mount the bracket to the stud.
Finally, a 2” wood screw was used to secure the PAX frame to the bracket.
All of the screws were pre-drilled using a 1/8” drill bit and screwed in with an impact driver.
Since we had a corner frame area (shown below), to find the exact frame placement along our main long wall, we FIRST needed to install the trim (top and bottom 1×10 and vertical 1×2 stiles) on the adjacent frame (left side) and get everything in place BEFORE mounting the adjacent bases and frames (right side along the main focal wall).
6. Install Trim (1×10 and 1×2)
Bottom Trim
To cover the bottom bases, we used 1×10 primed trim boards secured on top of them (you can also use 1×8 boards if you don’t need them to be that high).
I needed to rip a little off the top of the 1×10 to make it flush with the bottom shelf. I measured the required height and cut the board down using the track saw.
I first measured the length needed then cut the boards down to size on the miter saw.
This is the finished look and how it turned out:
The boards were then attached using a nail gun and 18ga 2” nails.
Top Trim
The top trim pieces required supports which were made out of 2x4s and 2x6s and 3” wood screws. Once the supports were assembled they were mounted to the tops of each frame.
I drilled pilot holes and counter-sunk 2” wood screws.
The top 1×10 primed pine boards were mounted just below the ceiling since we planned to use an additional 1×4 trim as a ceiling crown.
I used the same 18ga 2” nails but drove in more nails than the bottom trim since the top trim needs more holding power.
It required 2 people to hold the top trim level and in place while the nails were driven.
Vertical 1×2 Stiles
Once the top and bottom 1x10s were in place, I could measure, cut, and install the vertical 1×2 stiles.
Using these bandy clamps made it really easy to hold the 1×2 in place while nailing them in.
The vertical 1×2 stiles conceal where the PAX frames are joined next to one another and results in a very clean and built-in look!
They really make all the difference in the end result. This is how our 1×2 stiles turned out:
Joining multiple 1×10 boards along a long wall
The 8 ft 1×10 trim boards were not long enough to cover the entire main focal wall of the closet, so we needed to join multiple boards to fill the length.
To do this, we mitered both ends of the boards at a 45-degree angle to minimize the gap. After applying wood filler and sanding, the gap was completely invisible.
7. DIY Custom Corner Frame
PAX Frame Hack
We needed to DIY a custom frame to fit in one of the corners of the closet. To save time, we purchased an additional PAX frame for the side panels.
The 13 3/4” depth of the frame was a perfect fit. The only customization needed was the width.
DIY Closet Shelves
After gathering measurements, I cut the 3 shelves from a 4’x4’ sheet of plywood.
I first marked out the cuts with a straight edge and used a track saw to quickly and accurately make the cuts. A 4×8’ foam insulation board was used for support.
These cuts also could have been done with a circular saw and a straight edge.
You should also sand the plywood shelves at this point (which I forgot to do). It would have been much easier to sand the edges of the shelves before installing them in place!
Next, I attached the shelves to the side PAX panels. I put the side with the holes on the outside of the frame so that there would be fewer holes to fill.
After test-fitting this, I attached another DIY plywood backer board cut to size (I primed this earlier with the rest of the primed plywood backs).
Support Pieces
I needed to create additional supports for the custom frame to sit at the same height as the other frames.
For one side, I used one of the panels from the extra PAX frame. It was cut down to match the height of the 2×6 bases.
For the other side, I created another base out of 2x6s. I also secured a 2×4 vertically to support the left side of the custom frame.
After the frame was in place, I built another L-shaped bracket out of 2x6s to mount the frame to the wall studs.
This is the final result of this DIY custom PAX closet corner:
8. Install Remaining Trim, Crown, and Baseboards
Now that all the DIY PAX frames were mounted and in place, I could finish trimming out the rest of the bottom and top 1x10s, along with support pieces, and the vertical 1×2 stiles.
Install Crown
Cutting down and installing the 1×4 ceiling crown followed the same process as the other trim.
We went for a simple and modern look and used 1×4 boards as our ceiling trim (vs crown molding).
The final result (after caulking and painting):
Install Baseboards
We reused the original baseboards and shoe that were initially removed from our closet.
The steps were the same as the horizontal trim boards: measure, cut, and nail.
The baseboards used the 2” 18ga nails while the shoe used 1 1/4” 18ga nails.
With the baseboards back on, the “built-in” closet look really started to take shape!
This is how this closet section turned out:
How to Make PAX Shelving Flush with 1×2 Stiles
At this point, we realized the PAX shelves are recessed in from the side PAX frame panels, so we needed a way to make the horizontal shelf 1x2s flush with the vertical 1×2 stiles.
We tried to brainstorm different ways to fix this, like finding a different depth of 1×2 (which we couldn’t find).
This ended up being our solution: The thickness of the original PAX backing was an (almost) perfect spacer to fill the gap.
It doesn’t create a perfectly exact fit but it was pretty close and enough for us to try it out.
I cut strips of the original backing that came with the PAX units using a track saw for all the shelves.
Then, I nailed the strips onto the shelves. Bandy clamps helped hold the strips in place while driving nails in.
At this point, we WAITED to install the horizontal shelf 1×2 trim onto the shelves because it was easier to prime the shelves before installing them in the frames.
BUT, so that this solution makes a little more sense, here is how the finished look turned out (look for the thin strip next to the exterior 1×2).
Everything ended up being pretty flush so using the original Ikea backing was a good solution since we already had that material on hand.
9. Drawer Faces
At this point in the project, we were getting a little burnt out SO to save time and effort, we ordered custom-cut poplar boards from a local lumber yard.
(We recommend Owl Lumber in Lombard if you’re in the Chicago area.)
For a quantity of 16 drawer fronts, the cost was $228.10. This included the lumber yard cutting the boards down to our exact dimensions.
For the 29” wide PAX frame units, to have 1/8” spacing on the sides, these were the exact dimensions of our drawer fronts:
- Height: 7 3/4”
- Width: 27 3/4”
- Thickness: 3/4” (23/32”)
How our Ikea PAX hack drawers turned out in our closet:
To figure out the dimensions, we used Sketchup (see screenshot below).
If you’d like to cut these yourselves you can use 1×10 primed boards (this would’ve cost us $160 for material) as an alternative and cut it to size yourself with a table saw.
Alternatively, if you’re okay with larger gaps in between and don’t want to have to rip the boards, buying 1×8 primed boards is another option.
Just know that you may need to change the height of the shelf above the top drawer to accommodate.
Prep for Painting
Fill PAX Holes
We used a high-quality wood filler to fill all PAX holes and all exposed screw holes.
The packaging said to fill holes slightly higher than the surface to account for shrinkage which we did. But it ended up requiring quite a bit of sanding which made a big mess.
If we were to do it again, we would have done multiple thinner coats of filler until the holes were completely filled.
We used an orbital sander with 320-grit sandpaper to remove the excess filler. A hand sanding block was used for the tighter spots.
Mistake: We also should have taken off the PAX shelf mounts BEFORE this step. This made it harder to fill and sand around.
The filling and sanding was a very tedious process but was extremely important for the final finish. Spending the time at this step is worth it to get a smooth finish once painted!
Prime
Best Primer to Use for Painting Your Ikea PAX Closet
To achieve a long-lasting and durable finish when painting Ikea furniture, this is the exact primer to use!
The consistency of the primer is runny and you’ll have to make sure to mix it well before starting.
The fumes are very strong so make sure to use a respirator with filters and open up windows for adequate ventilation while applying.
How Long It Took to Prime:
Priming one side of the shelves and doors took 40 minutes (and we had a LOT of shelves).
We ended up doing two coats of primer just to make sure there was even coverage. This primer dries extremely fast so you’ll want to work quickly and try to always work with a wet edge.
Priming the closet frames took a lot longer and ended up being around 2 hours for one coat.
We set aside one whole day to prime everything.
Two Coats of Primer is Best
Ideally, TWO coats of primer will get you the best results!
For the back of the drawer fronts we only primed with ONE coat since you won’t be able to see it and the front of the drawer fronts got TWO coats of primer.
The drawer fronts that were primed with two coats turned out so much smoother and had an overall better finish.
Since this primer dries super quickly (with dry to the touch in 20 minutes and recoated in 45 minutes), you’re able to get in your second coat shortly after.
Materials Needed for Priming:
- Primer
- For reference, our closet needed 2 gallons of primer (we had around half a gallon left over)
- Foam Roller and Roller Frame
- This was our first time using a high-density foam roller for paint application and the primer finish turned out so smooth once dried!
- Foam Brush
- We used this for the harder-to-reach areas like the corners
- Disposable Roller Tray
- Disposable Cup
- We used a Dixie cup to scoop primer into the roller tray to avoid the mess of pouring straight from the container
For easy cleanup, we threw away the foam roller, brushes, and tray since you need solvents to clean them. Because of that, we made sure to pick cheap tools to dispose of after using them just for priming.
Caulk
We used paintable caulk on the baseboards, shoe, shelves, and anywhere where trim boards are perpendicular to each other.
From our research, the more expensive Big Stretch brand caulk is known for not cracking or shrinking over time.
How Much Caulk to Buy: We needed about 2 tubes of caulk for the entire closet.
We also had a helpful caulk tool which made it much easier than using a finger to smooth out the bead of caulk.
Install Final 1×2 Shelf Trim
To make it easier to prime the shelves and PAX frames, we removed the Ikea shelves from the closet.
After priming and caulking, the Ikea shelves went back on and it was now time to secure the 1×2 boards onto the shelving.
Similar to the previous trim steps, we measured, cut, and nailed in the horizontal 1×2 trim boards at all the shelf locations.
We measured each shelf location individually since there were slight differences and the 1x2s needed to fit perfectly.
Wood Filler
We filled any gaps between the vertical 1×2 stiles and horizontal 1×2 shelf trim with wood filler and sanded smooth.
It was pretty tricky to get this to look perfect but did the best we could!
Again, it’s important to take your time with this step since after painting you WILL see imperfections in the wood filler if not completely smooth and seamless.
Here’s how the whole space looked after hacking the PAX with all remaining trim installed and primed (ready for paint).
How to Paint an Ikea PAX Wardrobe
For our Ikea closet paint color, I wanted a light greige color to keep the space light and bright but warm and inviting at the same time.
Picking Out a Paint Color
To pick out a closet paint color, we tested a few different paint samples using Samplize which is a super easy way to narrow down your paint selections without having to get jar samples that you actually have to paint.
I tried out SW City Loft vs. SW Aesthetic White and thought that Sherwin Williams Aesthetic White was the winner!
Then, I ordered a quart of Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel paint to test the actual trim paint on a scrap 1×10.
It was important for me to use the ACTUAL satin trim paint for my final sample instead of the sample paint just to make sure it was the most accurate sample.
The trim paint we bought has a satin finish and sometimes the difference in sheen can change how the paint ends up looking in the space, so I wasn’t going to take any chances on messing up the paint color.
After placing my paint sample in various spots around the closet and observing the color during different times of the day, I felt really good about moving forward with Sherwin Williams Aesthetic White, which was the perfect subtle and pretty light warm gray color for our closet design!
What Type of Paint to Use to Paint Ikea PAX Wardrobe?
The exact paint we used to paint our Ikea PAX wardrobe was Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel Paint in Satin, which is a water-based enamel paint typically used for cabinets, doors, and trim.
According to Sherwin Williams website, this paint “creates a hard durable finish that withstands the wear and tear of frequently cleaned and used areas.”
What we like about this paint is how well it self-levels and results in a smooth beautiful finish.
The paint from the Emerald line is expensive but we think it’s worth the cost and usually will purchase during their frequent 40% off sales.
One thing to note about the Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel paint is the cure time. While the paint will dry to the touch in a few hours, it can take 30 days to fully cure depending on temperature and humidity.
During this cure time it’s best to be careful with the painted surfaces, as even your fingernail can create marks in the paint.
We always use the Sherwin Williams Emerald line for our DIY paint jobs and always have great results!
Prep Your Space for Spraying
To prep for spraying in the closet itself, we masked off the ceiling and walls with painter’s plastic and flooring with construction paper.
In case you’re wondering how to painter’s tape the baseboards where two different colors will meet, here’s how we did it – diagonally down the middle (shown below).
Painting a DIY Ikea PAX Closet
Paint Sprayer
The paint sprayer we bought was the Graco Magnum X7 – decided to get a better one since we will be using this paint sprayer for future projects as well.
After doing a lot of online research, we selected the 310 Graco Fine Finish Spray Tip and Tip Guard, which was the recommended combination for spraying cabinetry.
Setting up the paint sprayer took around 30 minutes to figure out.
You’ll need a bucket (either 2 gallon or 5 gallons) for the paint to be strained in and for the tube to suck up the paint.
We used mesh strainers to remove any contaminents that could clog the paint sprayer.
After setting up, we did some test sprays to get a good feel for it and adjust the pressure as needed.
Two Total Coats of Paint
The first coat went pretty quick – 20 minutes for drawer fronts (did the backs first) and IKEA doors (also did the back part first).
We sprayed the drawer fronts and doors in our garage with one of our garage doors open on the far side for ventilation.
Spraying the closet itself took 1.5 hours for one coat. We decided to spray with all the shelving in but did take out the drawers and drawer mounts.
ALTHOUGH in hindsight we wouldn’t recommend spraying the closet indoors – keep reading why!
Make sure to wear a paint suit otherwise, paint WILL get all over your hair, arms, and basically everywhere (ask us how we know).
We didn’t need to wear the paint suit while spraying the drawer fronts in the garage so didn’t think to use it for the closet but I think the closet was in a much smaller space with almost no ventilation.
Our Experience Painting the Ikea PAX Wardrobe
Spraying the closet didn’t end up as planned – the goggles fogged up with paint overspray while spraying so it was hard to see and we ended up spraying too thick of a layer as the first coat. This resulted in large paint drips on the back corners.
We knew spraying might be a challenge in this closet in a tight space, but it REALLY ended up being a big pain. While the paint was still wet we tried to smooth the large paint drips with a foam brush (even though you’re not supposed to touch it after).
In the end, we were pretty fed up with spraying the closet for a second coat and decided to apply the second coat with a roller instead.
To fix the few spots with paint drips, we sanded it down a few days later once dried and applied another coat on but this time with a small roller instead for the closet areas that needed touch-up.
If we were to do this all over again, we would apply TWO coats of paint with a ROLLER instead of spraying the closet frames indoors.
For the drawer fronts and IKEA doors, we did do the proper 2 coats of sprayed paint with 4 hours of dry time in between (spraying in the garage was not nearly as miserable and had much more ventilation).
How Much Paint to Buy
For reference, our closet used 3 gallons (plus our 1-quart test sample) of the Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim enamel paint.
How it Turned Out
The paint finish of the Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel was excellent!
The self-leveling properties worked really well and if the surface was primed well and sanded smooth, you’re able to achieve a beautiful professional finish.
We chose the satin finish since we don’t prefer too much shine and really like how it turned out!
You’ll want to wait until the paint is completely dry and cured which can take many days.
We waited around a week before moving on to installing the drawer fronts and PAX doors.
Install Drawers and Hardware
Installing PAX Drawers
Installing the PAX drawers was so satisfying and this was when we could start to see the light at the end of the tunnel for this project.
Drilling Knob Holes in Drawer Fronts
The drawer knob placement we decided on was 6 inches from the sides.
The drill bit size we used to pre-drill knob holes was an 11/64” drill bit.
We did not drill the holes BEFORE painting which we realized was a mistake. This would’ve made it easier to drill the holes on the drawer fronts without worrying about chipping or damaging the painted drawer fronts.
We used one of the drawer fronts with the measurements for the knob placement as a template to drill the rest, which made the process go a lot quicker.
We were super careful while drilling the knob holes and managed to avoid any damage or chips to the painted drawer fronts, so it ended up working out.
We used painter’s tape on the template piece to prevent the boards from hitting each other.
HELPFUL TIP: You can drill these holes on top of a box to catch all of the mess for an easy cleanup!
Placement of Custom Drawer Fronts
Trial and Error with Playing Cards
We used playing cards as spacers to get the exact placement of the drawer fronts.
This step takes a bit of trial and error and playing cards allows for fine-grain flexibility in figuring out the drawer front spacing.
You’ll want to test-fit the drawer fronts before mounting anything permanently. Here’s how we did this:
We had planned the drawer fronts to have around a 1/8” gap between drawers and estimated 10 playing cards would measure that.
But when we tried it with 10 playing cards from the bottom up, we ended up with too much gap at the very top.
On our second attempt, we adjusted to 11 playing cards each, which lined the drawers up vertically and spaced evenly apart.
Mounting Drawer Faces onto Ikea PAX Drawers
Once the drawer face location was set with the playing cards, we drilled a hole through the hardware drawer face hole into the PAX drawer using the same 11/64″ drill bit.
We then drove in wood screws into the holes which held the drawer front to the PAX drawer box.
The drawer can then be opened with the drawer front temporarily attached.
Then 4 pilot holes were made with a 5/64″ drill bit at each of the corners inside of the PAX drawer box.
Finally, 1″ cabinet screws were installed to firmly attach the drawer front.
Don’t make this mistake: The drawers will end up sagging a little without the spacers, so make sure to keep the spacers in until all drawer fronts are attached.
We didn’t do this on the first set of drawers and ended up with larger gaps around the top drawer face.
Adjusting the Top Ikea PAX Drawer
As with any DIY project, there are unexpected things that happen.
This might happen to you: As we mounted the drawer faces from the bottom to the top, we realized that the top drawer wouldn’t be able to open due to the drawer hardware being slightly lower than the PAX drawer!
To fix this, we had to adjust the very top Ikea PAX drawer position slightly higher than where the pre-drilled PAX holes already are.
Solution: We drilled new holes in between the existing PAX holes (right in the middle) and re-installed the drawer hardware. This now allowed the drawer to open correctly.
Drawer Knobs
The Exact Drawer Knobs We Bought
We decided to splurge on these Rejuvenation drawer knobs for a high-quality and luxurious feel and they were 100% worth it!
The knobs come with 3 screw sizes included with your purchase – we used the longest size for the drawers and the shortest size for our PAX door.
These Rejuvenation knobs are super heavy and look expensive (because they were)!
They complete our closet perfectly and add the perfect finishing touch.
We chose the Aged Brass finish which complemented our SW Aesthetic White color beautifully.
This is a more affordable Amazon drawer knob alternative that is a little more budget-friendly and has a similar look.
For us, we felt like investing in a better-quality knob would really complete our closet look and we get compliments on these drawer knobs all the time!
Install Closet Rods
Now the very last thing to do is install closet rods and then we’re finally DONE with this Ikea closet hack!
What Closet Rods to Buy
We thought through a couple of options for what closet rod to use for this project:
Option 1. Amazon Closet Rod
For our previous closet project, we chose to NOT use the Ikea rods and instead opted for an upgraded look with these Amazon oval chrome rods.
We liked the oval shape which just looks more expensive and luxurious next to the white PAX frame. You can easily cut these rods to the length you need for your space.
Check out our previous Ikea closet blog post for more details and close-ups of these chrome rods.
However, for THIS closet project, since we have brass knobs on our drawers, I didn’t want to mix up chrome and brass.
The Exact Closet Rods We Bought:
A black rod would be too harsh and contrasted so I ended up purchasing this Satin Nickel Amazon closet rod as the finishing touch for our closet.
This particular satin nickel color reads more like a dark gray and almost like a gunmetal finish.
This resulted in an understated look paired with the greige paint color we chose! We really like the oval shape which gives off an upgraded look.
For our specific closet layout, we bought one 36” rod and three 48” rods and cut them to size for an easy installation.
We shared more installation details below.
Option 2. Ikea Komplement Rod
For a clean and simple look, you can always use the Ikea Komplement rod which comes in either white or dark gray.
If you used the standard-size Ikea PAX frames for your closet, you wouldn’t need to cut these to size.
Option 3. Rejuvenation Aged Brass Rod
A third alternative was to purchase a custom-length rod from Rejuvenation that is an exact match to the Aged Brass color of our drawer knobs.
This option was really pricey and the shipping would’ve taken too long so even though it would’ve been a really cool and unique look, we didn’t end up going for it.
If you want a brass look, this may be a great option because I didn’t find many brass rod options on Amazon (that looked good anyway).
We are very happy with how our Amazon closet rods turned out – an easy upgraded look for not too much added cost!
Closet Rod Installation
Install Closet Rod Mounts
For the 39″ PAX frames, we used the pre-drilled holes for the closet rod mounts.
But for the custom frame, we needed to figure out where we wanted to place mounts and drill out the holes.
After test fitting with hanging clothes, we decided to place our closet rod 4 1/2″ from the front (this was for a 13″ depth PAX frame).
We measured 4 1/2″ in from the front 1×2 trim to the middle of the rod mount and 2 1/2″ inches down from the top shelf to the top of the mount.
Once the 2 holes were marked, we drilled them out with a 3/16″ drill bit, making sure to only drill as deep as the other PAX holes by using painter’s tape on the drill bit.
After that the hardware was test fit and the center screw hole was marked and a pilot hole was drilled with a 1/16″ drill bit.
Finally, the hardware was inserted and the mounting screw was installed.
Cut Closet Rods to Size
We then measured the rod locations with a tape measure. For the 39″ frames we cut our rods to 37 9/16″ long.
Then wrapped the rod cut location with painter’s tape, marked the length, and made the cut with an angle grinder.
If you don’t have an angle grinder, you can also make the cut with a hack saw and metal cutting blade.
The cut was cleaned up with sandpaper and then installed in the closet.
This was the finished look with closet rods installed:
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